Enhancing Natural Texture with Haircolor
Haircolor transformations are made possible by understanding your starting point, desired end result, and most importantly having the best tools and products to get you there. Julia’s look was created using a combination of Product Club’s Clear Thermal Film and Balayage Film.
Julia was a new client who was ready to establish herself with an experienced colorist. The goal was a dimensional low maintenance look that would enhance her natural texture and features. I chose to use Clear Thermal Film with lightener & 5 vol around her hairline to ensure a clean even lift. Throughout the interior using lightener with 30vol, I hand painted her most prominent wave pattern and contained each section in our Clear Balayage film.
STEP ONE: Starting in the nape, apply your lightener and 5 vol for a low and slow lift on those delicate baby hairs with the Clear Thermal Film taking diagonal back partings. Follow the shape of the natural hairline about an inch deep. These partings can be a combination of fine weaves, slices, or end lights with hair left in between or not depending on the texture of your client’s hair. Consider the intention of creating dimension vs overall brightness. For Julia, the intention was to create a beautiful sparkle along the entire perimeter to enhance her look on ponytail days.
STEP TWO: Following the shape of the natural hairline, move on to either the right or left front sides with the hair parted to the client’s preference. Your formula will continue to be lightener with 5 vol. Again, these partings can be a combination of fine weaves, slices, or end lights depending on the texture of your client’s hair of the intention of create dimension vs overall brightness. As you work up the sides pivot your sectioning in a radial manner as if you were cutting a pie with the center point of reference being the part line. Stop once you meet up with your first weave in the nape behind the ear. To ensure there’s and optimal level of contrast we will leave a 2-3in upside down triangle section out of our highlight placement.
STEP THREE: Allow the client’s hair to lay in natural fall and begin your balayage placement with clay lightener and 30vol starting in the back. Take diagonal back partings starting at the occipital bone if the client’s ends already have some brightness to begin with. With Julia I took 2-3 inch subsections and painted her most prominent waves in a V formation. As I applied I considered the amount of depth I wanted to maintain in the crown for a beautiful diagonal back side profile grow out. Encapsulate each section with Clear Balayage Film to avoid unwanted color transfer between sections. I used two 12inch perforated sheets per section.
STEP FOUR: In the front, start your application above the upside down triangle we left out for depth. As I painted Julia’s hair I asked myself, “How will this look when her hair is down or up?” Also, “ Have I left enough of her natural color out to ensure a natural level of contrast?”
STEP FIVE: Ensure your client is comfortable! I gently moved the The Clear Thermal Film away from Julia’s face and secured them in place without disturbing my overall placement with Product Club’s Balayage clips.
STEP SIX: Process the lightener to the desired level. For a warmer end result it’s important to maintain some yellow in the hair. If your end result is cool allow the hair to lift to the color of the inside of a banana. After 15 mins or processing I placed Julia under a heat lamp for 5 more minutes.
STEP SEVEN: Shampoo, gently towel dry, and begin to apply toner. Using my Product Club color scale, I mixed .6oz 4,0 + .4oz 4,14 with 1oz of 10 vol for her base melt leaving out the entire hairline. For her hairline, mids, and ends I mixed 1.5oz 6,14 + .5oz 7,32 with 2oz of 10 vol and processed for 10 mins.
HOW TO USE THE CLEAR THERMAL FILM:
Using the cutting tool on the box, pre cut the amount of film you will need prior to the service. This is a wonderful option as you can make the film as long as you need depending on the length of the hair.
Lay film under the hair and apply your color of choice. As soon as the color is applied the film will stay firmly in place.
Lay a second piece of film directly on top or fold the film as you would a foil.
KEY BENEFITS:
Has power to process color in the same way a foil would.
Allows you to see the hair every step of the way to ensure optimal lift or if the need to reapply arrises.
Clear Thermal Film is reusable up to 3 times.
Once you’re ready to remove, the Clear Thermal Film slides off easily with a bit of water. Easy for you and comfortable for your client.
Stack Clear Thermal Film for a flat and easy to work around placement. This also allows you to monitor the strand for inconsistencies that may present themselves if you’re unsure of your client’s hair color history.
Precut your Clear Thermal Film in an average placement amount as they can be easily rinsed, dried, and reused up to 3 times.
Use Clear Thermal Film for test strands! This is a great way to test out toning options while your client is processing.